Women’s Rights Inspired Pockets

I did a little rage sewing this morning. This idea came to me while prepping for my strawberry 🍓 class yesterday. I figured I would do it some time during summer recess. Well. That some time turned out to be 6 am this morning.

Initially, I envisioned a pocket with the Women’s Rights colors in the US, purple, gold, and white, with a black shadow cat on the front. I was considering a couple roses as well, either in the cat’s mouth or at her feet. Currently, thay feels too complicated. I bought enough to make multiple pockets because I can never make just one.

Materials for my 3 pockets:

  • 6″ of Purple, Gold and White (I recommend 9″ )
  • 1/2 yard of black (for the cats still coming)
  • 1 yard of white cotton
  • Bias tape or twill tape or ribbon for ties

My pocket is made with 2″ wide strips cut from selvage to selvage. These were sewn together with a quarter inch seam allowance. This gave me 13.5″ of striped fabric. I did have to go back and do some piecing because my picket template is just a bit longer. (This is why I suggest buying 9″ instead of 6″.)

Once I had my stripes together and pressed, I traced my pocket template onto the fabric. Originally, I was going to do just horizontal stripes. On a whim, I did diagonal. I rather like the result. I also cut 2 layers of white cotton per pocket.

I pretty much assembled these as I normally would assembled a pocket, just with a machine instead of my hand. I used a shallow zigzag stitch around the edge. I was tempted to use of of my machine’s decorative stitches.

I will be adding a black shadow cat to my pocket. I will do this by cutting out two layers of black cotton and turning the cat shape right side out to applique. Then they will all need waist ties which are yet to be determined.

Make your own pocket

Materials for 1 pocket:

  • 1 fat quarter for each of your desired colors
  • 1/3 yard white (or other color) for back and lining
  • Decorations as desired
  • Bias tape or twill tape or ribbon for ties. Waist measurement plus at least 2 feet to tie.

To make a single pocket cut 2″ strips from fat quarters. For a 14″ deep pocket with horizontal stripes you will need 10 strips. For diagonal stripes you will need 12 strips. Vertical stripes would take 6 to 8 strips.

Sew the strips together rotating the colors. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowances when finished.

**note on pressing: press towards the darkest stripes. I found afterwards my purple stripes seam allowance shows through the yellow.

Take a piece of packing paper appropriately 12×15″ (or tape together two sheets of 8.5×11.) Fold the paper in half lengthwise. Sketch out the shape of your pocket with the fold being the center. Cut along the line. Unfold to see the shape. Refold and adjust until you are happy with the shape.

Trace your pocket shape onto you fabric strips. Cut this out.

Layer your lining and back fabric. Trace and cut 2 pocket pieces. On one piece mark the center of the flat top. Draw a line 6 to 8 inches down the center of this lining piece.

Place the lining piece on top of the stripes piece, right sides together. This will put the line you drew face up.

Sew parallel to the line you drew between 1/8″ and 1/4″ from the line on each side and below the line creating along U. Cut down the center of these stitch lines on the drawn line. Stop before reaching the bottom by a 1/4″. Cut a tiny inverted V.

Turn the stripes and lining right side out. Press along the opening. Top stitch the opening.

Place the pocket front and pocket back together, right sides together. Sew around the whole curved edge approximately 1/2″ from the edge. Trim to 1/4″. Turn right side out and press. Top stitch around the whole curved edge.

Enclose the top raw edge (trim to neaten if needed) by folding the tie tape over it. Sew the ties in place.

Decorate as desired.

Reproduction Broaches in Doll Sizes

Sometime during lockdown, I stumbled upon a reproduction maker on Ebay. I sampled a few pieces in support and found I liked nearly all of them. Those I didn’t like were due to personal preferences: I don’t like very large broaches, though that is a very Victorian thing, and I don’t like shiney, preferring matte finishes. Since then, they have moved to Etsy and added more styles.

Among those styles are pieces the right size for dolls.

Here, Violet wears a pin from an earlier purchase. This style combines an anchor, heart, and cross entwined. On the right, Theo wears one of the newest arrivals, a sheath of wheat. (Violet is about 21″. Theo is about 19″)

Here is a side-by-side of the wheat broach for me and the wheat broach for the dolls. (I have decide to treat myself to the wheat themed pieces from different reproduction artists.)

I happen to like the bog oak, gutta percha, and bone finishes best. I prefer the matte finish. I find the Whitby jet to be shiney. I also think matte finishes show the detail best.

There are styles in a petite size suitable for larger dolls. Here is a list of styles available at the time of writing. There have been others and may still be more. I have those in italics.

Style A – Anchor/heart https://www.etsy.com/listing/700991921/set-of-2-brooches-anchorheartcross-large

Style A & B – Doves and forget-me-nots, doves and wheat sheath – https://www.etsy.com/listing/694461675/reproduction-victorian-mourning

Style C – Wheat – https://www.etsy.com/listing/700935523/reproduction-victorian-mourning

Style C – Wheat – https://www.etsy.com/listing/680588896/reproduction-victorian-mourning

These crosses may be small enough – https://www.etsy.com/listing/687127896/set-of-2-cross-bois-durci-reproduction

Kerchief Doll

She has a body, chemise, and petticoat.  This makes her ready enough for opening day.
The chemise is one of tweeks and tucks. I added too much width for the original four shallow tucks I wanted to do. The four became six and were made deeper. It has the tiniest button and button hole I’ve done, I think.
I need to be much more careful in draping her bodice. She will get a toile before I cut into the kerchief. 
I am currently picturing a deep V similar to what I plan for my wool challis. I need to look at the scale of the border before deciding whether to use it on the skirt and sleeves, or front of the bodice as well.